As you might have noticed from all my previously painted stuff, nearly everything I paint uses washes – or more particularly, a single wash at the end. So, with that in mind, here’s my first step-by-step guide to painting something the Lazy Luke way, which basically involves flat coats and a wash near the end to tie it all together.
Step 1. Black undercoat. I did this one by hand, hence the patchiness – but the fun thing about this method is that as long as you get most of it, it doesn’t really matter.
Step 2. Give the model a heavy drybrush of white all over – everything. Don’t worry about being neat, just make sure you hit everything that you won’t be painting another colour (so, hit the whole hull, the “building” sides, the fan rims, etc).
Step 3. Drybrush light blue stripes – since I use GW paints, it’s Ice Blue here – for some contrast. Note that since we’ll be washing the whole thing later on, there will be much less distinction between the white and the light blue at the end – when you pick colours, make sure that the wash doesn’t make them look the same at the end.
Steps 4, 5, and 6. Pick out some details now. Note that these will get hit by the wash as well, so if you want these to be the colours you’re painting now rather than tinged with your wash, do these later.
I chose dark grey (Adeptus Battlegrey) for the guns, since I wanted them dark but not black. The wash later on gives them a bit of depth in the detailing.
For the fans, I did a solid coat of white on these, so I can wash them twice later on to give them a strange mix of both the hull and the power colour.
Finally, for the decking – I chose a light brown since the wash will darken these considerably – Calthan Brown.
Step 7. Wash time! Coat the whole model in your chosen wash colour – for these guys, it’s Asurmen Blue. The GW washes are great, since you can just slop it on and (provided you left it in a sensible orientation to dry) you end up with instant shading. The blue ties everything together – notice how the white and light blue are now much closer in tone, but are still different.
You might notice some extra colours in the above picture, because I got a bit ahead of myself and forgot to take a photo after the wash dried and instead leapt straight into the next two things:
Steps 8 and 9. These were done after the wash had dried – yellow gun muzzles, and green glowing things (“smokestacks”, the bit at the middle of the fan on top, and the “exhaust” things on the bottom). These are the bits that you don’t want tinged by the wash (the bits you want to stand out).
Step 10. Back to the fans which I put a solid coat of white on before, now I wash them using Thrakka Green along with the green parts I just painted – gives them a bit of depth, and ties all the propulsion stuff together.
And that’s it! The wash hides a multitude of painting sins – if you look closely, my light brown decking isn’t very neatly painted, and my “drybrushing” is sometimes closer to “wetbrushing”, but the whole-model-wash ties the whole thing together in the end. This one took me about 30 minutes to paint, not including “waiting for the wash to dry” time (which can take a while – it’s better to batch paint these).
Yes, I haven’t picked out all the detailing (windows, stairs, etc), and yes it’s a bit rough in places, but it looks good from tabletop distance and produces a distinctive colour scheme which is easily recognisable, which is enough for me. My models won’t win any painting competitions, but I think they easily meet the tabletop painting standard!
Magnets! I highly recommend using these for anything which uses a flying stand – this way, you can keep the model and the flying stand separate (much easier for storage!) and you don’t have to worry about the model breaking off the flying stand while you’re gaming either. I use 3mm x 1mm disc magnets for Dystopian Wars, which exactly fit on the flying stands as you can see above – pop one on the top of the flying stand, one in the hole on the model (making sure your polarity matches!), and no more flying stand problems!